Sailing in the Mediterranean: where to sail

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Home to an extremely diverse cruising area, whether on your own boat or charter, there are literally dozens of options to consider when cruising the Mediterranean, says Lu Heikell.

Sailing in the Mediterranean: where to sail next season

Mediterranean sailing: some of the best places to sail. Credit: Maxine Heath

With warm air and sea temperatures (sometimes too hot), the season in the Mediterranean is much longer than in climates further north of Europe.

Here are some of our favorite areas, written Lu Heikell.

Sailing in the Mediterranean: The Balearics

Located 50 miles off the Valencian coast of Spain, the Balearic Islands include the four main islands of Ibiza, Formentera, Mallorca and Menorca, and several smaller islands including Cabrera and Espalmador.

Together they represent one of the most popular cruising areas in the Mediterranean.

Ports, marinas and anchorages are dotted at convenient distances around the coast, allowing for a mix of secluded and isolated bays and cosmopolitan towns.

In high season it is undoubtedly bustling, both on land and at sea, but besides forming stepping stones as you cross the Mediterranean, they are well worth a visit if you get the chance.

Sailing in the Mediterranean: Cabrera Caste overlooks the peaceful anchorages of the Balearic Islands

Cabrera Caste overlooks the tranquil anchorages of the Balearic Islands. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

The towns and countryside of the interior are worth exploring as a surprisingly tranquil place away from crowded coastal areas.

Marinas prices are always high but can be tempting in high season, but Port de Balearic ports are worth looking for for more reasonable rates.

Charter yachts are widely available. Anchorages abound, so during the summer months there are plenty of options. Each island has its own “flavor”.

Lu Heikell is one of the leading authors of books on pilots in the Mediterranean and has sailed there and back to the UK via inland and offshore routes.  Credit: Lu Heikell

Lu Heikell is one of the leading authors of books on pilots in the Mediterranean and has sailed there and back to the UK via inland and offshore routes. Credit: Lu Heikell

Ibiza, the most westerly island, is known as the Party Island and unfortunately much of the coast has been built, leaving little of the coast truly untouched.

Formentera and the neighboring island of Espalmador are mostly low lying islands close to the south of Ibiza.

Its reputation is for a more laid back relaxed atmosphere and is relatively undeveloped. In Puerto del Espalmador, there is a good sheltered anchorage almost all around.

Mallorca is the largest island, the cultural and political center, and Palma de Mallorca is the capital of the region.

50 miles ENE from Ibiza, it can be reached in a long day of navigation. Bahia de Pollensa is a good starting point for those traveling to Menorca and a decent place to refuel if needed.

Menorca, the easternmost island, is known for its rugged beauty and Mahon has one of the largest natural harbors in the region.

The detached pontoons here are perhaps the most inexpensive berths one can find during the summer months.

Tuscany and the Tuscan Islands

The Tuscan coast stretches from Viareggio and Pisa to Monte Argentario in the south. Offshore are the main Tuscan islands of Capraia, Elba and Giglio.

The Tuscan archipelago is a popular cruising ground for yachts and the patchwork of islands between Corsica and the mainland provide conveniently spaced stepping stones.

The islands are covered by the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, which has restricted areas on all islands, and the islands of Gorgona, Pianosa and Montechristo are completely closed areas.

Capraia: once a prison, now a haven of peace

Capraia: once a prison, now a haven of peace. Credit: Lu Heikell

The Tuscan mainland offers few anchorages, but the main towns of Viareggio, Pisa and Livorno all offer berths that shouldn’t break the bank, and good bases for exploring the Renaissance city of Florence, the Etruscan coast and experience the famous fall carnival of Viareggio.

And yes, I have the photo of me ‘holding’ the famous leaning tower!

Continued below …

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Greek Customs have recognized that British yachts can retain their EU VAT status when returning to Greece from outside the EU …

The islands are a natural escape, with more possibilities to anchor, but certainly less than around the Balearics. Capraia is just 16 miles east of Cap Corse and is a former prison island.

Aside from the traffic of yachts, there is little to disrupt this largely tranquil place.

The island of Elba is the main island, well known as the subject of the Napoleonic palindrome “Able-je before I have seen the island of Elba”.

Porto Azzurro is one of the many attractive ports on Elba Island.  Credit: Lu Heikell

Porto Azzurro is one of the many attractive ports on Elba Island. Credit: Lu Heikell

The coast is very rugged and there are many attractive harbors and anchorages.

Portoferraio is the main port, built under the 16th century citadel walls and lined with beautiful 18th century merchant houses.

Depending on the wind direction, good shelter can be found on the north and south coasts, while Porto Azzurro on the east coast is another scenic gem.

Isola del Giglio and Isola Giannutri are the southernmost islands and anchorages here can get busy, but remain a cooler option than the mainland in the heat of summer.

Greece and Turkey

Greece and Turkey are undoubtedly two of the most popular destinations for sailors in the Mediterranean.

Whether you decide to base your own boat here or hire a yacht for a shorter visit, few people do not return to this sailing paradise.

Depending on your level of experience or inclination, each region offers something for everyone – the milder winds of the Ionian Sea, the remoteness of the Peloponnese, the loud breezes blowing over the Cycladic islands, cosmopolitan Istanbul or the late summer heat of the Dodecanese and the southern coast of Turkey.

Turkey is not a Schengen country, so British sailors can take their time.  Credit: Lu Heikell

Turkey is not a Schengen country, so British sailors can take their time. Credit: Lu Heikell

You will find the cachet of history jostling with modern life literally everywhere you go.

Our choices for escaping the busiest places in Greece would be the southern Peloponnese around Kalamata, northern Greece with Kavala, Thasos and Samothrace, and the Cyclades, Eastern Sporades and northern Dodecanese, using either Mitilini ( Lesbos) or Lakki (Leros) as a base.

In Turkey, long-term mooring options are available at reasonable prices, and this has the advantage for UK visitors who stay here that they don’t eat into your Schengen time allowance.

The villages of the Cyclades are swept by the breezes.  Credit: Lu Heikell

The villages of the Cyclades are swept by the breezes. Credit: Lu Heikell

You can sail into the heart of Istanbul city or explore the vast natural anchorages between Bodrum and Finike on the south coast.

The Gulf of Gokova and the Gulf of Fethiye remain very unspoiled and are home to some of our favorite anchorages.

Turkish cuisine, Turkish hospitality and of course Turkish rugs are all legendary and can be found everywhere, although the best rugs are said to come from Milas, near Bodrum.

Sailing in the Mediterranean: what you need to know

Season

Mediterranean summers are generally hot, sometimes very hot, and sedentary.

The shoulder seasons are warmer than the Atlantic coasts, with the seasons extending further south and east.

Sailing and swimming in southern Turkey in early November is not unusual.

Cruise hubs

Palma, Mahon, Pisa, Portoferraio, Corfu, Levkas, Athens, Bodrum, Göcek.

Mediterranean sailing publications

Pilot books for Mediterranean sailing

Guides such as the Greek Waters Pilot and the Mediterranean Almanac are essential for sailing in the Mediterranean

General search (including Atlantic Islands) using Mediterranean Almanac, Lu and Rod Heikell, (Imray, £ 29.50)

Buy the Mediterranean Almanac on Amazon UK

Buy the Mediterranean Almanac on Amazon US

Balearic Islands, David and Susie Baggaley (RCCPF / Imray, £ 37.50)

Buy Islas Baleares on Amazon UK

Buy Islas Baleares on Amazon US

Pilot of Italian waters,
Rod and Lu Heikell (Imray, £ 45)

Buy Italian Waters Pilot on Amazon UK

Buy Italian Waters Pilot on Amazon US

Pilot of Greek waters,
Rod and Lu Heikell (Imray, £ 42.50)

Buy Greek Waters Pilot on Amazon UK

Buy Greek Waters Pilot on Amazon US

Pilot of Turkish waters and Cyprus,
Rod and Lu Heikell (Imray, £ 45)

Buy the Turkish Waters and Cyprus Pilot on Amazon UK

Buy Turkish Waters and Cyprus Pilot on Amazon US

Airports and travel

For the Balearics Palma de Mallorca.

For the Tuscan Islands Pisa, Rome. Good train service throughout Italy.

Greece Athens and many regional airports. Extensive network of coaches nationwide.

For Ionian Corfu, Preveza.

Turkey Istanbul, many regional airports. Extensive network of coaches nationwide.

For the southern navigation area Bodrum-Milas, Dalaman.

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